You can almost imagine the death knell ringing, ushering the deceased, with Vladimir Karaleev’s collection for MBFW 2011. This Bulgarian designer rejects traditional cuts and presents geometric silhouettes with an underlying theme of gravity, or perhaps a seriousness of life. Karaleev softens the darkness with muted blues, olive greens, and pale browns. The garments fall from shoulders and slowly tear and shroud the body. Even the pace of the catwalk is reduced, the models pacing with the despondent lurch of a priestly procession from the dark ages. An independent and unique designer amongst the others this year.